![]() ![]() Among the casseroles, the sparerib with taro is a reliable gateway intro. “Crispy garlic flavor chicken” pulls the same heartstrings as American fried chicken: The flesh stays moist, the lightly battered skin yields satisfying crunch, and a confetti of scallions and fried garlic bits adds gentle seasoning. “Three kinds of dumpling soup”-shrimp, pork, and vegetable bundles lolling with greens in a clarion broth-feels especially welcome as a first course this time of year. His recent departure to a formidable new destination in the suburbs mirrors the migration of the affluent Chinese community away from Buford Highway and toward Gwinnett County, where the Asian population jumped 77 percent in the last decade. In 2009 he left for Bo Bo Garden down the street, where he offered a near-identical menu. Ting first earned attention at Buford Highway’s defunct Wan Lai, where he introduced his specialty casseroles-braised meats presented in rustic round pots. And it hired Danny Ting, Atlanta’s most renowned Cantonese chef, to oversee the kitchen. To immediately secure its culinary reputation, the restaurant enlisted dim sum cooks from New York to bring some much-needed new blood to the area. A flashy crystal chandelier recalls the disco era. Roomy chairs sport neon-red slipcovers, many of them affixed with giant yellow bows that look like they were ripped off the costumes from Titanic. Inside, the dining room seems permanently primed to host a banquet. They mechanically wave their left paws, drawing in customers. Opposite, on shelves above the register, stand the feline statues borrowed from Japanese culture called Maneki Neko-sometimes known as the lucky cat in English. On the left side of the foyer sits a large aquarium, a feng shui classic for attracting wealth. One of the grandest Chinese restaurants to open in years, the place lays bare its lofty ambitions. Small wonder that Golden House, which opened in September, is already a hit within the Asian community and beyond. Twenty minutes into the meal and we were already stuffed. We ogled plates of fried salt-and-pepper squid whizzing over our heads and considered the congee (rice porridge) cart and small egg custard tarts. We started ordering in a frenzy: char siu bao (yeasted buns containing barbecued pork) cheung fun (sheets of slippery steamed rice noodles encasing whole shrimp) taro puffs with crunchy, frizzled exteriors fried eggplant stuffed with shrimp rectangles of pungent turnip cakes hot off a roving griddle bundles of sticky rice with sausage and other meaty mysteries wrapped in lotus leaves a plate of Chinese greens dotted with cloves of roasted garlic more dumplings soft tofu served from a bucket and splashed with ginger syrup. We asked for har gau, siu mai (open-faced cylinders of pork and shrimp with fluted wrappers), and a plump variation containing shrimp and chives. The cart carrying dumplings came clanging by. and snagged a table near the kitchen to get first dibs on the freshest selections. But in November, an Atlanta friend who’d also resided in the Bay Area proclaimed that the yum cha (Cantonese for brunch) at Duluth newcomer Golden House had become a Sunday ritual. The restaurant tells Eater that a separate area dedicated to take-out dim sum and Chinese barbecue should open by the end of December.In 2007 I lived in San Francisco, one of the country’s epicenters of true-minded Chinese food. Golden Island has become known for hosting live music and dancing and this location will also offer entertainment via a range of bands and music genres on weeknights while reserving the space on weekends for weddings and other large-scale events. ![]() Its experienced head chef, who will oversee on-site banquets, formerly cooked at Rancho Bernardo’s now-shuttered Pearl Restaurant as well as various Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong and Los Angeles. on weekends, the restaurant features daily dim sum cart service as well as a massive menu of Cantonese cuisine, from live seafood to roast meats. ![]() Spanning 15,000-square-feet, it’s comprised of a main dining hall and an adjacent event space that can combine to accommodate 750 people. The proprietors of the popular Mira Mesa Chinese restaurant Golden Island have completed an upgrade and renovation of the longstanding banquet hall and restaurant at the corner of 54th and University, now renamed Diamond Palace. ![]()
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